You’ve probably stood in front of your hot tub at some point wondering whether you should turn it off for a long weekend, an extended vacation, or the entire off-season. Maybe your energy bill has you questioning whether it’s worth keeping 400 gallons of water heated when you’re only using it occasionally. Or perhaps you’re preparing for winter and want to avoid the nightmare of frozen, cracked plumbing that can cost thousands to repair.

The truth is, “turning off a hot tub” isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer. It can mean anything from activating an energy-saving mode on your control panel for a few hours to completely draining and winterizing your spa for months. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every scenario, helping you make the right decision for your situation while protecting your investment and saving energy. Whether you’re a new spa owner or a seasoned veteran, you’ll find actionable, expert-backed strategies that go beyond the vague advice found in most owner’s manuals.

Understanding When and Why to Turn Off Your Hot Tub

Before you reach for any buttons or drain valves, you need to understand the fundamental question that confuses most hot tub owners: when does it actually make sense to turn your spa off? The answer depends on several factors including your usage patterns, local climate, energy costs, and how long you’ll be away from the tub.

Making the wrong decision here can actually cost you more money and create maintenance headaches. A well-insulated modern hot tub is designed to maintain its temperature efficiently, and the energy economics might surprise you.

The Energy Cost Debate: Reheating vs. Maintaining Temperature

This is where many hot tub owners get it wrong. The common assumption is that turning off your hot tub whenever you’re not actively soaking in it will save substantial energy. In reality, the physics of heat retention tell a different story.

A quality hot tub with good insulation and a tight-fitting cover loses heat slowly and steadily. The heater kicks on periodically to replace that lost heat, working efficiently because it only needs to make up for small temperature drops. When you completely shut down your spa and let it cool to ambient temperature, you’re setting yourself up for a massive energy draw when you want to use it again.

Consider this real-world example: reheating a standard 400-gallon hot tub from 60°F back up to 102°F can consume as much electricity as maintaining that temperature for 2 to 3 days in moderate climates. If you’re in a colder region, the numbers skew even further in favor of maintaining temperature. The heater will run at maximum capacity for 12 to 24 hours straight, drawing far more power than the intermittent heating cycles needed to maintain a stable temperature.

The break-even point typically occurs somewhere between 7 and 14 days of non-use, depending on your specific tub’s insulation quality, cover condition, and ambient temperature. Below that threshold, you’re actually wasting energy by letting the tub cool down completely.

When You Should NOT Turn Off Your Hot Tub

There are several scenarios where shutting down your hot tub is counterproductive, potentially dangerous, or simply unnecessary. Understanding these situations will save you from making costly mistakes.

If you use your hot tub daily or even every few days, keep it running at your desired temperature. The energy cost of maintaining heat is minimal compared to the inconvenience and expense of constant reheating. Most quality spas cost between $20 to $50 per month to operate when used regularly, which is far less than most owners expect.

During short periods of cold weather, never turn off your hot tub unless you’re prepared to completely winterize it. Even a single night of freezing temperatures can cause catastrophic damage if there’s water in the plumbing lines. The residual water that remains after draining (in pumps, heaters, and jets) will freeze, expand, and crack expensive components.

Skip the shutdown if you don’t have time to follow the proper procedure. A half-completed winterization is worse than leaving the tub running. If your schedule only allows for a quick cover and a hope for the best, simply lower the temperature setting and ensure your cover is secure.

Also avoid turning off your hot tub if you’re dealing with any plumbing issues or leaks. The constant flow of water can actually help you identify problems. Once turned off and drained, you lose the ability to monitor these issues, and restarting could lead to bigger problems going unnoticed.

Scenarios That Justify Turning Off Your Hot Tub

There are legitimate reasons to power down your spa, and recognizing these situations will help you make smart decisions about energy consumption and maintenance.

Extended vacations lasting more than one to two weeks are perfect candidates for a temporary shutdown. You won’t be using the tub, and the energy savings over this period start to justify the cost of reheating when you return. Just make sure you follow the proper vacation shutdown procedure rather than a full winterization.

Seasonal closures make complete sense for many owners. If you live in a region with brutally hot summers and you know you won’t touch your hot tub from May through September, a full seasonal shutdown will save hundreds of dollars in electricity. Similarly, if you only use your spa in summer months, winterizing for the cold season is essential.

Repairs and maintenance often require a complete drain anyway. If you’re replacing pumps, fixing leaks, or performing any work that requires access to the plumbing system, you’ll need to follow proper shutdown procedures. This is also the perfect time to deep clean the shell and purge the plumbing lines of biofilm buildup.

Moving your hot tub to a new location or preparing your home for sale also necessitates a complete shutdown. Nobody wants to transport or show a house with hundreds of gallons of water sloshing around in a spa.

Finally, if you’re simply not using your hot tub and have no plans to do so in the near future, there’s no point in heating water that just sits there. Some owners discover that their lifestyle has changed and the tub that seemed like a great idea is now just an expensive lawn ornament. In this case, a proper shutdown preserves the equipment until you decide to sell it or make it operational again.

The 3 Levels of Turning Off a Hot Tub: A Comparison

Not all shutdowns are created equal. Understanding the three distinct levels of “turning off” your hot tub will help you choose the right approach for your specific situation, avoiding unnecessary work while ensuring you don’t skip critical steps.

Each level corresponds to a different duration of non-use and requires progressively more effort. Matching the shutdown method to your actual needs prevents both wasted energy and potential damage.

Level 1: Using Built-in Control Panel Modes

This is the simplest form of “turning off” your hot tub, and it’s what most daily users should rely on for short-term energy savings. Modern hot tub control systems include several operational modes designed to reduce energy consumption without requiring any draining or major procedure.

The purpose here is straightforward: reduce heating and filtration cycles during periods when you know you won’t be using the spa for several hours or a couple of days. This might be during a work week when you only use the tub on weekends, overnight when everyone’s asleep, or during a short trip.

The action required is minimal. You’ll access your spa’s topside control panel, navigate to the mode settings, and select the appropriate energy-saving option. The water stays in the tub, the equipment remains plugged in and powered, but the heater and some pump functions go into a reduced state.

The risk is very low because you’re not draining anything or exposing plumbing to freezing temperatures. The worst-case scenario is that you come back to slightly cooler water that takes an hour or two to reheat.

Level 2: Vacation or Temporary Shutdown

This intermediate approach is ideal when you’ll be away from home for one to four weeks and want to save energy without going through a complete drain and winterization process.

The purpose is to minimize energy consumption during extended absences while keeping the water treated and the equipment protected. You’re essentially putting the spa into a deep sleep mode with some manual preparation.

The action involves treating your water chemistry to prevent algae and bacteria growth, lowering the temperature to its minimum setting (usually 70-80°F), and ensuring your cover is properly secured. Some owners also reduce filtration cycles to the absolute minimum, though this depends on your specific control system’s capabilities.

The risk is low if you’ve properly balanced your water chemistry and you’re not in a climate where freezing is possible. The main concerns are returning to swampy, algae-filled water (if chemistry was wrong) or cover damage from severe weather. If temperatures might drop below freezing while you’re gone, skip this level and move to a full winterization instead.

Level 3: Full Seasonal Shutdown and Winterization

This is the complete, no-shortcuts process required for long-term non-use, especially during winter months in freezing climates. It’s also what you’d do if you’re moving, performing major repairs, or have decided you won’t use your hot tub for an extended season.

The purpose is to remove every drop of water from the spa shell and all plumbing components to prevent freeze damage, conserve maximum energy, and preserve your equipment during dormancy.

The action is comprehensive: cutting power at the breaker, draining all water from the shell, purging every plumbing line with a shop vacuum, loosening pump unions to allow trapped water to escape, removing and cleaning filters, and securing everything for the off-season.

The risk is high if this process is done incorrectly. Even small amounts of water left in a pump, heater, or jet line can freeze, expand, and crack components that cost hundreds or thousands of dollars to replace. This is why winterization must be thorough and methodical. If you’re not confident in your ability to complete every step, hiring a professional service is worth the investment.

How to Turn Off a Hot Tub for Short Periods Using Spa Modes

For the vast majority of hot tub owners, learning to use your control panel’s built-in modes will be your most frequent method of “turning off” the spa. These features are designed to provide convenient energy savings without any of the hassle or risk associated with draining and winterization.

Your hot tub’s brain is the control system, and understanding how to communicate with it unlocks significant efficiency. Most modern spas use controllers from major manufacturers like Balboa, Gecko, or SpaNet, and while the specific button sequences vary, the underlying concepts are universal.

Finding and Using Your Hot Tub’s Control Panel Modes

Your topside control panel is typically mounted on the spa’s edge within easy reach while you’re seated. It displays the current water temperature and provides buttons for adjusting settings, controlling pumps and lights, and changing operational modes.

The key thing to understand is that these modes don’t cut power to the hot tub. The breaker remains on, and the control system stays active. What changes is how aggressively the heater runs and how often the filtration pumps cycle on.

To access mode settings, look for a button labeled “Mode,” “Settings,” “Menu,” or something similar. On some systems, you’ll need to press and hold the temperature buttons simultaneously. When you’ve entered the mode menu, you’ll see options like “Standard,” “Economy,” “Sleep,” or brand-specific variations.

Consult your owner’s manual for the exact button sequence, but once you’ve done it a few times, switching modes becomes second nature. Many newer systems even allow you to schedule mode changes automatically, so your spa enters economy mode during work hours and switches back to standard mode in the evening without any manual intervention.

Understanding Sleep Mode

Sleep mode is designed for overnight energy savings or daytime hours when nobody will be using the hot tub. When activated, the system reduces your set temperature by a fixed amount, typically 10 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.

For example, if you normally keep your spa at 102°F, sleep mode might lower the target to 90°F or 80°F. The heater will still run, but only to maintain this lower temperature. When you deactivate sleep mode, the system returns to your original set point and begins reheating.

This mode is ideal for regular weekday nights when you use the tub on weekends, or during the workday when the family is away from home. You’ll save energy on heating without the long recovery time associated with a complete cool-down. Most hot tubs can recover from sleep mode to full temperature in 2 to 4 hours.

The filtration cycles usually continue running on their normal schedule during sleep mode, which helps maintain water quality. This distinguishes it from some of the more aggressive economy modes.

Understanding Economy Mode or ECO Mode

Economy mode takes a different approach to energy savings by restricting when the heater is allowed to run. Instead of lowering the temperature target, the system maintains your desired temperature but only permits the heater to fire up during scheduled filtration cycles.

Most hot tubs run filtration for 2 to 4 hours twice daily (once in the morning, once in the evening). In economy mode, the heater can only run during these windows. If the water temperature drops between filtration cycles, the heater stays off until the next scheduled cycle begins.

This mode works best in well-insulated hot tubs with quality covers in moderate climates. If your tub loses heat slowly, economy mode can deliver substantial savings without your water temperature dropping more than a few degrees. However, in very cold weather, you might find the tub has cooled 5 to 10 degrees by the time the next filtration cycle kicks in.

The advantage over sleep mode is that your temperature set point doesn’t change. You’re not manually lowering expectations; you’re just making the heating process more efficient by batching it with filtration, which has to run anyway to keep water clean.

Some spa owners use economy mode year-round, accepting slightly variable water temperatures in exchange for lower energy bills. Others use it seasonally, employing standard mode in winter when maintaining temperature is harder and economy mode in summer when heat retention is easier.

Understanding Standby Mode or Maintenance Mode

This is a specialized mode you’ll use for quick maintenance tasks like filter changes, waterline cleaning, or skimming debris. Standby mode temporarily shuts off all pumps and the heater for a brief period, usually 30 to 60 minutes, then automatically returns the spa to normal operation.

The purpose is safety and convenience. If you need to clean the filter housing or scrub the waterline, you don’t want pumps suddenly activating and creating suction or spray. By putting the spa in standby, everything goes quiet and still, giving you safe access to perform quick tasks.

Unlike the other modes, standby isn’t about energy savings. It’s about giving you a controlled shutdown without having to walk to your electrical panel and flip the breaker. This is especially useful if your breaker is located far from the spa or if you need to perform frequent maintenance.

After the timer expires, the spa automatically resumes its previous mode and settings. You don’t have to remember to manually restart anything, which reduces the risk of accidentally leaving your spa off and returning to frigid water or, in winter, frozen plumbing.

Some control systems allow you to extend standby mode if you need more time, while others require you to physically exit and re-enter the mode. Check your manual for the specific capabilities and time limits of your system.

How to Shut Down a Hot Tub for Vacation (1 to 4 Weeks)

When you’re planning to be away from home for more than a few days but less than a month, a full drain and winterization is usually overkill. Instead, you can execute a vacation shutdown that significantly reduces energy consumption while keeping your water preserved and your equipment safe.

This middle-ground approach requires a bit more preparation than simply switching to economy mode, but far less work than a complete winterization. The goal is to return home to a hot tub that’s ready to use again with minimal fuss.

Step 1: Pre-Departure Water Chemistry Check

Water that sits unattended for weeks can become a breeding ground for algae, bacteria, and other microorganisms. The key to avoiding a swampy mess when you return is ensuring your water chemistry is perfectly balanced before you leave.

Start by testing your water 24 to 48 hours before departure. Check pH, total alkalinity, and sanitizer levels (either chlorine or bromine, depending on your system). Your pH should be between 7.2 and 7.6, total alkalinity between 80 and 120 ppm, and sanitizer at the higher end of the recommended range.

Perform a shock treatment the day before you leave. Shocking oxidizes organic contaminants and gives your sanitizer a boost that will help maintain water quality during your absence. Use a non-chlorine shock if you have sensitive skin and plan to use the tub immediately upon return, or a chlorine-based shock for maximum sanitizing power.

Add a maintenance dose of algaecide if you’ll be gone for more than two weeks. While properly balanced water shouldn’t develop algae, the extra insurance is worth it, especially if your hot tub is in direct sunlight or if outdoor temperatures will be warm.

If you have an ozone generator or UV sanitizer, ensure it’s functioning properly before you leave. These supplemental systems will continue working while you’re away, reducing the chemical burden on your water.

Document your water levels before leaving so you can check for evaporation or potential leaks when you return. Take a photo with your phone showing the waterline position for easy reference.

Step 2: Lower the Temperature on Your Control Panel

Once your water chemistry is dialed in, it’s time to dramatically reduce your energy consumption by lowering the temperature set point. Navigate to your temperature controls and drop the setting to the lowest available option, typically 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

This lower temperature serves multiple purposes. It significantly reduces the frequency and duration of heating cycles, which translates directly to energy savings. Over the course of two weeks, this can save $20 to $50 or more depending on your electricity rates and climate.

The reduced temperature also slows down chemical consumption and helps prevent the water from becoming cloudy or developing issues. Hot water accelerates chemical reactions, so cooler water remains stable longer.

However, don’t turn the heater off completely unless you’re in a warm climate where freezing is absolutely impossible. Even a single unexpected cold snap can cause freeze damage. The low temperature setting provides a margin of safety while still delivering substantial energy savings.

In moderate to warm climates, your spa may not even need to heat at all with a low set point, as ambient air temperature and sunshine might keep the water naturally in the 70 to 80 degree range. In this case, the heater simply stays off, and you’re consuming energy only for the periodic filtration cycles.

Before you leave, verify that the new temperature is displayed on your control panel and that the system has accepted the change. Some controllers require you to confirm settings before they take effect.

Step 3: Secure Your Hot Tub Cover

Your spa cover is your primary defense against heat loss, debris, and safety hazards. Before leaving for vacation, inspect it carefully and ensure it’s properly positioned and locked.

Check the cover for any rips, tears, or waterlogged sections. A compromised cover loses insulating ability and can become heavy enough to damage the lifting hardware. If your cover is in poor shape, consider replacing it before a long absence, as a quality cover pays for itself in energy savings.

Clean the top surface of the cover to remove any dirt, leaves, or debris. This prevents staining and degradation of the vinyl during your absence. A quick spray with a garden hose and wipe-down with a soft cloth takes just a few minutes.

Ensure the cover is centered on the spa and that all locking clips or straps are engaged. A secure cover prevents children or animals from accessing the water, keeps out windblown debris, and maintains the thermal seal. Some covers have built-in locks that require a key, while others use straps that buckle or clip. Whatever system you have, double-check that it’s fully engaged.

If you live in an area prone to high winds, consider adding extra tie-downs or weights to prevent the cover from blowing off during a storm. Returning to a hot tub full of leaves, dirt, and rain water is frustrating and creates a cleanup hassle.

For those with automatic cover lifters, ensure the cover is in the closed position and the lifter is secure. Some lifters have locking mechanisms to prevent casual opening.

Finally, if your climate involves heavy snow and you’ll be gone during winter, make arrangements for someone to brush snow off the cover periodically. Excessive snow load can damage both the cover and the spa cabinet.

How to Fully Decommission and Winterize a Hot Tub (Seasonal Shutdown)

When you need to shut down your hot tub for an entire season or for an extended period in freezing weather, half-measures won’t cut it. A full winterization means removing every drop of water from the spa shell and plumbing system to prevent freeze damage that can total your equipment.

This is the most critical and detailed process covered in this guide. Take your time, be methodical, and don’t skip steps. The investment of 2 to 3 hours now can save you thousands of dollars in repairs and the heartbreak of discovering cracked pumps or split plumbing lines when you restart.

Professional spa technicians perform winterizations daily during the fall season, and many offer this service for $150 to $300. If you’re not confident in your ability to complete every step correctly, hiring a pro is money well spent. But if you’re comfortable with basic DIY tasks and have the right tools, you can absolutely handle this yourself.

Pre-Shutdown Checklist: Tools and Supplies You’ll Need

Before you start draining anything, gather all necessary tools and supplies. Having everything on hand prevents you from getting halfway through the process and realizing you’re missing a critical item.

You’ll need a standard garden hose long enough to reach from your spa’s drain valve to an appropriate drainage area. Make sure the drainage location is legal and environmentally sound; never drain chemically treated spa water onto lawns where it can harm plants or into storm drains.

A submersible pump is optional but highly recommended. These small pumps cost $30 to $80 and reduce draining time from several hours to 30 or 40 minutes. You’ll place the pump in the footwell, plug it into an outdoor outlet, attach a hose, and let it do the work.

A wet and dry shop vacuum is absolutely essential and is the single most important tool for winterization. You’ll use it in blow mode to purge water from plumbing lines. If you don’t own one, they’re available at home improvement stores for $40 to $100, or you can rent one. Do not attempt to winterize without this tool.

Gather spa filter cleaner solution or cartridge degreaser. You’ll be removing your filters, and this is the perfect time to deep clean them before storage.

Have soft cloths or non-abrasive sponges ready for wiping down the shell. You’ll also want spa shell cleaner or a mild, spa-safe cleaner to remove the waterline ring and any buildup.

Depending on your specific hot tub model, you may need a wrench or pliers to loosen pump unions. Most unions are hand-tight and don’t require tools, but some can seize over time. Having an adjustable wrench on hand prevents frustration.

Finally, consider having towels available for mopping up residual water and protecting your knees if you’ll be kneeling on the spa cabinet during the process.

Step 1: Safety First – Turn Off Power at the GFCI Breaker

Before you drain a single gallon, you must cut all electrical power to the hot tub at the GFCI breaker. This is not negotiable and is not optional. Water and electricity create a lethal combination, and you’ll be working with both during the winterization process.

The danger is real: if a pump attempts to run while the spa is being drained or is empty, you could be exposed to energized components in wet conditions. Additionally, running pumps dry can damage the pump seals and impellers, creating expensive repairs.

Your hot tub should be on a dedicated circuit with a large amperage breaker, typically 40 to 60 amps depending on the spa’s size and electrical requirements. For more context about electrical needs, understanding hot tub wiring and hot tub electrical installation basics can provide valuable background.

How to Locate Your Hot Tub’s Breaker

Your spa’s breaker is usually located in your home’s main electrical service panel, though some installations use a dedicated sub-panel near the hot tub itself. Look for a large, double-pole breaker (it will be wider than standard 15 or 20 amp breakers used for lights and outlets).

The breaker should be clearly labeled “Hot Tub,” “Spa,” or something similar. If your panel isn’t labeled, this is a good time to create labels. Never assume you know which breaker controls your spa; verify by turning it off and confirming that the spa’s control panel goes dark.

GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) breakers have a test button and often a different appearance than standard breakers. They’re designed to detect electrical faults and trip instantly to prevent electrocution. When you switch the breaker to the off position, it should click firmly and stay in place.

After turning off the breaker, return to your hot tub and verify that the control panel display is completely dark and that no lights or pumps are running. This confirms that you’ve cut power to the correct circuit.

As a safety measure, some people place a piece of tape over the breaker or attach a note warning others not to turn it back on during the winterization process. This prevents a well-meaning family member from “fixing” the breaker while you’re working on the spa.

Step 2: Drain the Hot Tub Completely

With power safely disconnected, you can now begin removing water from the spa shell. Most hot tubs have a drain valve or hose spigot located on the exterior of the cabinet near the ground level.

Locate this drain valve and attach your garden hose. The hose should run to an appropriate drainage location with adequate capacity to handle 300 to 500 gallons of water. Remember that hot tub water contains sanitizers and other chemicals, so avoid draining directly onto grass, garden beds, or into storm drains. Check local regulations, as some municipalities have specific requirements for spa water disposal.

Open the drain valve completely. Water will begin flowing through the hose, and the spa water level will slowly drop. Gravity draining through a hose can take 2 to 4 hours depending on the diameter of the hose and the elevation drop to your drainage point.

This is where a submersible pump dramatically speeds the process. Place the pump in the deepest part of the spa (usually the footwell), plug it into a GFCI-protected outdoor outlet, and attach a hose to the pump’s outlet. Most submersible pumps can drain a hot tub in 30 to 45 minutes.

As the water level drops, you can use the opportunity to scrub the waterline and shell surfaces that are normally underwater. This is easier to do while the shell is still wet.

Once the majority of water has drained, you’ll notice puddles remaining in the footwell, behind jets, and in various low spots. Use towels or a large sponge to soak up as much of this residual water as possible. Getting the shell as dry as possible now makes the final cleanup easier.

The drain valve method only removes water from the shell. Significant amounts of water remain trapped in the plumbing lines, pumps, heater, and other components. This is what the next critical step addresses.

Step 3: Purge All Water from the Plumbing Lines

This is the single most important step in winterization, and it’s where most DIY disasters occur. Any water left in the plumbing system can freeze, expand, and crack pipes, fittings, pumps, or the heater. Even a few ounces of trapped water in the wrong place can cause hundreds or thousands of dollars in damage.

The only way to remove this water is to blow it out using forced air. This is where your wet and dry shop vacuum becomes essential.

Using a Wet/Dry Vac to Blow Out the Lines

Configure your shop vacuum for blow mode rather than suction mode. Most shop vacs allow you to move the hose connection from the intake port to the exhaust port, converting the vacuum into a powerful blower.

Start with the jet nozzles in the seating areas. Remove any decorative jet faceplates if they’re easy to take off, though this isn’t always necessary. Hold the shop vac hose firmly against one jet opening, creating as tight a seal as possible.

Turn on the shop vac and maintain the seal. You’ll hear air rushing into that jet, and after a few seconds, you’ll see water begin to sputter and spray out of the other jets in the same pump zone. This is exactly what you want. The forced air is pushing trapped water out of the plumbing.

Continue blowing air through each jet for 15 to 30 seconds, or until only air comes out of the other jets with no water droplets. Then move to the next jet and repeat the process.

Pay special attention to any diverter valves that route water between different jet groups. These valves can trap water, so cycle them through their positions while blowing air through the jets.

Don’t forget waterfalls, neck jets, or any other water features your spa might have. Each of these has plumbing that needs to be purged.

Air control valves (the small knobs on the spa’s topside that adjust jet pressure) should also be addressed. Open them fully and blow air through the associated jets to clear the air channels.

The filter canister or filter housing is another critical area. Remove the filters (you’ll clean these in a later step) and blow air forcefully into the filter housing. This helps clear the manifold and any plumbing connected to the filtration system.

Finally, locate the pump intakes and any accessible drain points under the spa. These areas can trap water, so hit them with forced air as well.

This step is tedious and can take 20 to 40 minutes, but it’s time well spent. The goal is to blow out every possible pocket of water in the entire plumbing system. When you’re finished, you should be confident that only a fine mist or dampness remains in the lines, with no standing water anywhere.

Step 4: Loosen Pump Unions and Drain Plugs

Even after blowing out the lines, your pumps, heater, and other equipment still contain water. To remove this, you need to access the equipment compartment and manually drain these components.

Locate the equipment access panels on your spa cabinet. These are usually held in place by screws or clips. Remove the panels to expose the pumps, heater, and plumbing.

Each pump will have large plastic fittings called unions on both the intake and outlet sides. These unions allow the pump to be removed for service. They typically have a collar that unscrews by hand, though some may require a strap wrench or pliers if they’ve been in place for years.

You don’t need to completely remove the unions; just loosen them by turning the collar counterclockwise several turns. This breaks the seal and allows trapped water to drain out. Have towels ready because several cups of water may pour out of each union.

Some pumps also have small drain plugs on the pump body itself. If your pumps have these (check your owner’s manual or look for a small plug on the underside of the pump), remove them completely and let the water drain.

The heater assembly may also have drain plugs or unions. Locate these and loosen or remove them to allow water to escape.

Once water stops dripping from the loosened unions and drain plugs, leave them in this loosened state for the winter. Do not re-tighten them. The open position allows any residual moisture to evaporate and prevents water from being trapped.

Some winterization experts also recommend tilting the entire spa slightly if possible (using shims or blocks under one side) to encourage any remaining water to flow toward drain points. This is an advanced technique and isn’t necessary for most hot tubs, but it can provide extra insurance against freeze damage.

Step 5: Clean and Store Your Filters

With the spa drained and the plumbing purged, turn your attention to the filter cartridges. These should be removed, thoroughly cleaned, and stored indoors for the winter.

Remove the filter cartridges from their housing. Depending on your spa model, this might involve unscrewing a filter lid, lifting out a filter basket, or accessing filters from inside the spa cabinet.

Rinse the filters with a garden hose to remove loose debris and surface dirt. Use a spray nozzle with good pressure to blast between the pleats.

For a deep clean, use a filter cleaner solution or cartridge degreaser. These products break down oils, lotions, and organic buildup that water alone can’t remove. Follow the product instructions, which typically involve soaking the filters in a bucket of cleaning solution for several hours or overnight.

After soaking, rinse the filters thoroughly again until the water runs clear and no cleaning solution remains. Any residual chemicals could damage the filter material or contaminate your fresh water when you refill.

Allow the filters to dry completely. This can take 24 to 48 hours in a well-ventilated area. Don’t store damp filters, as moisture can promote mold growth or cause the filter material to degrade.

Once fully dry, store the filters indoors in a climate-controlled space like a garage, basement, or utility room. Avoid storing them in freezing conditions, as the filter material can become brittle and crack.

If your filters are old or show signs of damage (crushed pleats, frayed fabric, or broken end caps), winterization is a good time to replace them. Starting the new season with fresh filters ensures optimal water quality and system performance.

Step 6: Final Wipe Down and Secure the Cover

With all water removed and filters stored, it’s time to prepare the spa shell for its winter rest.

Use a spa shell cleaner or a mild, spa-safe cleaning solution to wipe down the entire interior surface. Pay special attention to the waterline area where oils and minerals accumulate. Remove any scale, stains, or residue.

Clean the headrests, pillows, and any other removable accessories. Some owners prefer to remove and store these items indoors to extend their life.

Wipe down the entire shell until it’s completely dry. Any standing water, even small puddles, could freeze if temperatures drop low enough.

Clean the top of the spa’s lip where the cover sits. A good seal between the cover and shell helps keep out debris, moisture, and pests.

Inspect the interior one final time, checking for any water you might have missed in cup holders, footwell depressions, or around jet housings. Use towels to remove any remaining moisture.

Now place your hot tub cover back onto the spa. Ensure it’s properly centered and seated correctly.

Engage all locking straps, clips, or buckles to secure the cover. A locked cover prevents animals from nesting in your spa, keeps out rain and snow, and provides a safety barrier.

If you have a cover lifter, ensure it’s in the closed position and won’t blow open in high winds.

For extra protection, some owners place a tarp over the entire spa and cover, securing it with bungee cords. This provides an additional layer of weather protection and can extend the life of your cover.

If you live in an area with heavy snow, make arrangements for periodic snow removal from the cover to prevent excessive weight accumulation.

Your spa is now fully winterized and protected for the off-season. When spring arrives or whenever you’re ready to use it again, you’ll follow the restart procedures covered in the next section.

The Critical Steps for Restarting Your Hot Tub After a Shutdown

Successfully winterizing your spa is only half the equation. When the time comes to bring your hot tub back to life, proper restart procedures are essential to avoid damage, error codes, and frustration.

Many hot tub problems that appear to be equipment failures are actually the result of improper startup after a shutdown. Air locks, flow errors, and heater malfunctions are common when owners skip steps or rush the process.

Taking the time to restart correctly ensures your first soak of the new season is relaxing rather than stressful.

Step 1: Inspect and Re-Tighten Everything

Before adding a single drop of water, return to the equipment compartment and reverse the changes you made during winterization.

Locate all the pump unions you loosened. Hand-tighten them by turning the collars clockwise until they’re snug. Don’t over-tighten or use excessive force; hand-tight is sufficient. These unions should seal properly with just firm hand pressure.

Replace any drain plugs you removed from pumps or the heater. These small plugs are critical; without them, water will pour out when you refill.

Double-check every connection you touched during winterization. A single forgotten drain plug or loose union can cause a major leak when you restore power.

Retrieve your clean, dry filters from storage and reinstall them in their housing. Ensure they’re properly seated and that any filter lids or locks are secured.

Inspect the filter housings for any cracks or damage that might have occurred during the winter. Replace any damaged components before filling.

If you removed the equipment access panels, leave them off for now. You’ll want to inspect for leaks once the spa is filled and powered up, and having easy access makes this much easier.

Walk around the spa and look for any obvious damage that might have occurred during the off-season. Check for cracked cabinet panels, damaged plumbing visible from outside, or any signs that animals might have gotten into the equipment area.

Step 2: Begin Refilling with a Filtered Hose

The way you refill your spa matters more than you might think. The refilling process offers an opportunity to prevent air locks, which are one of the most common problems after a shutdown.

An air lock occurs when air becomes trapped in a pump, preventing water from circulating. The pump runs, but no water flows. This triggers “FLO” (flow), “DR” (dry), or similar error codes on your control panel.

The secret to avoiding air locks is to fill through the filter housing rather than just running a hose into the spa shell. This technique allows water to enter the plumbing from the bottom up, naturally pushing air out through the jets as water fills the lines.

Remove the filter housing lid and place your garden hose directly into the filter canister. If possible, use a hose filter to remove minerals and impurities from your fill water. This gives you a better starting point for water chemistry.

Turn the water on and begin filling. You’ll see water entering through the filter housing and gradually filling the spa shell. This process takes longer than simply filling the shell directly, but the prevention of air locks is worth the extra time.

As the water level rises, watch for it to begin flowing from the jets. This is a good sign that the plumbing is filling correctly and air is being displaced.

Continue filling until the water level reaches the middle of the skimmer opening or the fill line marked on your spa (usually just above the highest jets). Don’t overfill; you’ll need room for water displacement when people enter the tub.

The filling process typically takes 45 minutes to 90 minutes depending on your water pressure and spa size.

Once the spa is filled to the proper level, remove the hose and replace the filter housing lid, ensuring it’s properly sealed.

Step 3: Restore Power at the GFCI Breaker

With the spa properly filled, you can now safely restore electrical power. Walk to your electrical panel and switch the GFCI breaker back to the on position.

Return to the spa and observe the control panel. It should light up and display information. Many spas will automatically enter a priming mode (showing “Pr” or “Priming” on the display) that lasts several minutes.

Priming mode keeps the heater disabled while allowing you to manually operate the pumps to purge any remaining air from the system. This is a safety feature that prevents the heater from firing without proper water flow.

Step 4: Test Pumps and Add Start-Up Chemicals

During priming mode or once the spa exits priming mode, activate each pump individually. Press the pump buttons on your control panel and observe that water is flowing from the jets.

Strong, steady flow from all jets indicates that your plumbing is properly filled and air-free. Weak or sputtering flow suggests an air lock might be present.

If you have an air lock, try turning the affected pump on and off several times. Sometimes this is enough to dislodge the trapped air. You can also try loosening a pump union slightly (with power off) to allow air to escape, then re-tightening once water begins flowing steadily.

Walk around to the equipment compartment with the panels still removed and inspect for any leaks around the unions, drain plugs, and plumbing connections. A small amount of dampness is normal initially, but steady dripping or spraying indicates a problem that needs to be addressed.

Once you’ve confirmed all pumps are working and no leaks are present, you can replace the equipment access panels.

Now it’s time to address water chemistry. Your freshly filled spa contains raw water with unknown chemistry that needs to be balanced before use.

Test the water for pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness. Adjust these parameters into the proper ranges using pH increaser or decreaser, alkalinity increaser, and calcium hardness increaser as needed.

Add your initial dose of sanitizer (chlorine or bromine) according to your system’s requirements.

Consider adding a metal sequestrant if your fill water contains high levels of iron, copper, or other metals. These can cause staining if not addressed immediately.

Run the filtration system for at least 24 hours before using the spa. This allows the water to fully circulate, the chemicals to distribute evenly, and the heater to bring the water up to your desired temperature.

Test and adjust chemistry again after 24 hours, then regularly thereafter according to your maintenance schedule.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Turning Off Your Spa

Even with detailed instructions, certain mistakes appear repeatedly when hot tub owners attempt to shut down their spas. Learning from others’ errors can save you significant money and frustration.

These aren’t just minor inconveniences; some of these mistakes can result in equipment damage costing thousands of dollars or create safety hazards.

Mistake 1: Just Unplugging It or Turning Off the Breaker in Winter

This is the most catastrophic error a hot tub owner can make in freezing climates. The thinking seems logical: “I’m not using it, so I’ll just turn off the power to save electricity.”

What actually happens is a disaster in slow motion. When you cut power without draining and purging the plumbing, hundreds of gallons of water remain in the system. As temperatures drop below freezing, that water turns to ice.

Water expands approximately 9% when it freezes. This expansion force is powerful enough to crack PVC pipes, split pump housings, rupture heater assemblies, and destroy valves and fittings. The damage occurs inside the foam-insulated cabinet where you can’t see it.

When spring arrives and you restore power, you discover leaks pouring from multiple locations. The repair bill can easily exceed $2,000 to $4,000, and in severe cases might total the entire spa.

If you live in a climate where freezing temperatures are possible, you have only two options: keep the spa powered and heated, or perform a complete winterization with full drainage and line purging. There is no middle ground.

Mistake 2: Forgetting to Purge the Lines

Some DIY winterizers drain the shell thoroughly but skip the critical step of blowing out the plumbing lines with a shop vacuum. They assume that if the shell is empty, the job is done.

The problem is that the plumbing system holds far more water than most people realize. After draining the shell, several gallons remain in the pump manifolds, jet lines, heater, and other components.

Even a few ounces of water trapped in a single jet line or behind a check valve can freeze and crack that component. The crack might be tiny and hidden within the cabinet’s foam insulation, making it nearly impossible to locate when leaks appear during restart.

This mistake is particularly common because the consequences aren’t immediately visible. You won’t know you’ve failed to properly purge the lines until you refill the spa and discover it won’t hold water or maintain pressure.

Professional winterization services spend most of their time on line purging because they know it’s the critical step. If you’re winterizing yourself, invest in a quality shop vacuum and take the time to blow out every jet, valve, and plumbing connection.

Mistake 3: Leaving the Hot Tub Empty with the Cover Off

After going through the effort of draining and winterizing, some owners make the puzzling decision to remove the cover and leave the spa exposed to the elements for months.

Acrylic spa shells are durable, but they’re not designed for prolonged exposure to direct sunlight and UV radiation without water to absorb and dissipate the heat. UV rays can cause the acrylic to fade, become brittle, or develop stress cracks.

An empty, uncovered spa also becomes a collection point for every leaf, twig, dirt, and debris in your yard. Rain and snow will accumulate, creating a stagnant pool in the shell that can stain surfaces and promote mildew growth.

Wildlife may also take up residence in an uncovered spa. Birds might nest in the shell or equipment areas, rodents can chew on wiring, and insects can colonize the damp environment.

The cover itself, while removed, is also vulnerable to damage, warping, and degradation if stored improperly. Even if you’re considering exploring hot tub deck ideas for a renovation project during the off-season, protect your spa with its cover.

Always keep your spa covered during shutdown periods. The cover protects your investment and makes restart much easier when the time comes.

Mistake 4: Restarting with a Dirty Filter

When the excitement of a new season arrives, some owners rush to refill their spa without first cleaning the filters that sat in storage all winter.

Dirty filters immediately contaminate fresh water with oils, biofilm, and organic matter that accumulated before shutdown. This gives you cloudy or discolored water from day one.

Worse, clogged filters restrict water flow, which can trigger flow errors and prevent the heater from operating. Your spa might refuse to heat, and you’ll spend hours troubleshooting what appears to be an equipment problem when the actual issue is simply dirty filters.

Always clean filters before reinstalling them during startup. If they’re old or damaged, replace them entirely. Starting the season with clean or new filters ensures optimal water quality and system performance.

Keep spare filters on hand so you can rotate them during the season. While one set is being cleaned and dried, you can install the spare set and keep your spa operational.

Conclusion: Turning Off Your Hot Tub with Confidence

Understanding how to properly turn off your hot tub isn’t about following a single set of instructions. It’s about matching the right shutdown procedure to your specific situation, whether that’s activating economy mode for a few days, implementing a vacation shutdown for a few weeks, or executing a full winterization for the off-season.

The common thread running through all these approaches is intentionality. Don’t just flip a switch or drain the water without understanding the consequences. Consider your climate, your timeline, and your comfort level with the procedures involved.

For short absences, leverage your spa’s built-in control modes to save energy without any hassle. For extended vacations, take the time to properly treat your water and lower the temperature. For long-term shutdowns in freezing climates, commit to doing a thorough winterization or hire a professional to ensure it’s done right.

The investment you make in proper shutdown procedures protects the larger investment you’ve made in the hot tub itself. A quality spa should provide decades of enjoyment, but only if you treat it with care during both active use and dormant periods.

When in doubt, consult your owner’s manual for model-specific guidance, or reach out to your spa dealer or a qualified service technician. The cost of professional help is always less than the cost of repairing freeze damage or replacing pumps and heaters.

Now you have the knowledge to confidently manage your hot tub through every season and situation. Whether you’re preparing for a winter getaway or closing the spa for the summer, you can do it correctly and efficiently.

Frequently Asked Questions